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GR20 north or south — which half should you hike?

The GR20 splits naturally at Vizzavona: ~92.5 km of technical granite to the north, ~85 km of greener ridges to the south. Here is how to choose — and which direction to walk.

Vizzavona is the only village on the trail and the natural hinge point: it sits almost exactly halfway, and its railway station on the Ajaccio–Bastia line means you can start or stop a half-trail hike without complicated logistics. That is why "north or south?" is the first real planning question for anyone who doesn't have two-plus weeks.

The two halves compared

The north: the GR20 of legend

From Calenzana the trail climbs straight into the Cinto massif and stays high. Expect hands-on-rock scrambling, slabs, the Spasimata suspension bridge near Refuge de Carozzu, and daily climbs that regularly exceed 1,000 m. Stages look short on paper and take all day. This is the half that gives the GR20 its reputation as Europe's toughest long-distance trail — and the half with the most dramatic high-mountain scenery, from Monte Cinto to Paglia Orba above Ciottulu di i Mori, the trail's highest refuge.

The south: greener, but no pushover

South of Vizzavona the trail changes character: pine forest out of the valley, the ski-station gîte at E Capannelle, long panoramic ridge walks around Usciolu, the Incudine massif, and the granite needles of Bavella near the end. The scrambling is rarer and the surface friendlier, but days are still long and ascents still serious. It is the better half for a first taste of the GR20, or for hikers who want big views over technical difficulty.

Which direction: north→south or south→north?

Calenzana → Conca (N→S) is the classic. You tackle the hardest, most technical terrain in your first days while you are fresh, and the trail gradually relents. Most guidebooks and most hikers go this way, which also makes it the more social direction.

Conca → Calenzana (S→N) is the smart alternative if you are unsure of your fitness: the gentler south builds your trail legs progressively, and you finish on the spectacular northern high mountains. Refuges also feel slightly less crowded when you move against the main flow. Both directions are fully waymarked; there is no wrong answer.

Half-trail logistics

For the north half, start at stage 1 in Calenzana and finish in Vizzavona; take the train out. For the south half, take the train to Vizzavona and walk to Conca, then bus to Porto-Vecchio. Browse the full stage list to see distances and times per leg, and the refuge hub to plan your overnight stops. And remember: all overnight stays must be booked, half trail or full.

Frequently asked questions

Is the GR20 north really harder than the south?

The north is more technical: more scrambling, more exposed rock, bigger daily climbs, and a few sections with chains. The south is greener and slightly gentler underfoot — but it still has long days, big ascents and the Incudine and Bavella sections. "Easier half", not "easy half".

Which direction should I walk the GR20?

North to south (Calenzana to Conca) is the classic direction described by most guidebooks — you hit the hardest terrain first, while your legs and food bag are freshest. South to north lets you build fitness progressively and finishes on the most dramatic terrain; it is a perfectly valid choice and slightly quieter at refuges.

Can I walk just half of the GR20?

Absolutely — many hikers do. Vizzavona has a train station on the Ajaccio–Bastia line, which makes both halves easy to start or finish. The north half (~92.5 km) takes roughly 5–9 walking days; the south half (~85 km) roughly 5–8.

Which half is more beautiful?

Both are spectacular in different registers: the north is raw high-mountain granite (Cinto massif, Spasimata, Paglia Orba), the south is ridgelines, pozzine plateaus and the Bavella needles. If you want the iconic hardcore GR20, go north; if you want big views with slightly less scrambling, go south.